Okay, here's your warning: pictures of not-so-dressed statues and pictures coming up. I did a pretty good job, but sometimes - well, it's really hard to manage taking modest pictures when the thing's completely naked. Grrrr.
Anyway, we got up early and headed back to Notre Dame Cathedral. It's free and not terribly far away.
The Seine again. This time it had boats!
This is a statue of Charlemagne, Holy Roman Emperor. With a beard. Never thought of him as having a beard, but okay. The crown he's wearing is an imperial crown - you can tell from the arch over the top. If you remember my pictures of St Giles cathedral from Edinburgh, you'll notice it's the same shape as the steeple.
The famed gargoyles of Notre Dame. They're so far up you can hardly see them. Unlike the ones in the Disney movie, these don't dance and sing - at least not where people can see them.
Here's the front again. I can't really believe I'm here! I mean, this was the first cathedral I ever heard about, and now I'm actually here!
Inside, we noticed the choir screen had carvings depicting the life of Christ. Everyone wandered right by, looking at the stonework and the stained glass - Miriam and I were the only people to stop and examine them. The whole building is dark, but these were really in the shadows - you could barely see them. I'm impressed my camera got them so well - I think it went into night mode. Miriam and I had a good time wandering along and playing, "name the scripture story."
They're not very clear, but they're better than nothing.
Well, here's the Seine again - where the two halves of it reconnect around the end of the island that Notre Dame is on.
Miriam and I met up with our friends and we went out for breakfast. The girl who knew a little French helped me figure out the order on the menu, but when the waiter came I completely blanked! I did okay at first, just holding up my menu and pointing, but then he asked a question, and I was done for. My friend had to come to my rescue - apparently he wanted to know what kind of juice I wanted.
I got orange juice and hot chocolate and toast. That's the hot chocolate. It's almost bitter, unsweetened, and the piece of chocolate to put on the top is very dark. I've noticed that hot chocolate over here isn't as sweet and milky as we drink it in America.
Or maybe it's just my family.
I don't usually think of myself as a sugarholic, but I don't expect bitter hot chocolate.
Anyway, I added two packets of sugar and it got lots better.
Here's the Seine again. It's growing on me, apparently. I don't know what the building in the back is, but it has Disneyland type towers. I love it!
Yup, this is us trying to decide which way to go. Only two of us had any sort of phone service or data at all, and the rest of us were going by maps or screenshots of maps that they took using the hotel wifi,
People write or scratch or engrave their names into the locks along with valentine-type sentiments. I kid you not - it's astonishing.
Somebody had spraypainted large portions of the locks in a graffiti-style way. I would feel super mad if they'd sprayed my lock.
I didn't put one on, but one of my friends had brought one, and snapped it on.
That's the view of the top from the second level.
Oh, and this picture is one I've always felt close to. Miriam and I play piano, and we have blonde and brown hair - I had no idea it was here until I turned the corner, and then I had a very happy moment.
Okay, this is a more modest statue. She's actually the not-so-nice wife of a Roman emperor, but her drapery is fabulous. Also, see the gold in the background? Yup, we're in France.
Nobody has yet been able to figure out how this hairstyle was achieved. Some speculate it was a wig, others think it was sewn up. I think - wow, I don't know what to think.
Oh, the Winged Victory. I think they built this whole portion just to showcase her. She's more famous than the Venus de Milo - she's missing her head too! No, I actually don't know which is more famous. But this one is famous for the drapery, sense of motion, and weightlessness that the statue portrays. It's actually several tons in weight.
I'd only ever seen the statue bit - I'd never actually seen the stone platform she stands on. She's larger than life, but the pedestal makes her even taller! If you've ever seen the movie Funny Face with Fred Astaire and Audrey Hepburn, there's a bit where she walks down a flight of stairs holding a scarf that floats out behind her. She's supposed to make you think of the Winged Victory.
Funny though - Audrey Hepburn embodied the idea of beauty at the time: short, straight, flat figure. The Winged Victory emphasized a more ancient ideal of beauty - tall, curvy and voluptuous. So it's an interesting juxtaposition.
Wow, off topic. Sorry.
Yeah, this is me with her. Miriam did a really good job catching the picture - there were tons of people flooding around us.
Okay, I'm positive I've seen this picture before. Help? Anybody? It was a really long time ago. Actually, this painting is super old, and comes with another angel painting and one of Mary and baby Jesus. I don't remember those bits, but I certainly remember this one.
Paintings, paintings everywhere... Really, we could have spent hours here. And it's shocking how casually they hang the names of great artists on the wall! Just like it's no big deal to have a Raphael or a Reubens or a Da Vinci.
Speaking of Da Vinci...
Yes, this is Mary sitting on her mother's lap, playing with baby Jesus, who is in turn playing with a lamb as an echo of his own future sacrifice. Some people think the Burlington cartoon was an early study for this. If you can't remember what the Burlington cartoon was, Google it or look back through my blog - I talked about it.
This is another Da Vinci! From left to right: baby John the Baptist, Mary, baby Jesus, angel. I saw the twin to this in London, and posted about it! The London one is actually my favorite of the two - this one is darker. Incidentally, there are a few key differences between the two paintings - look at my pictures side by side to see. If you've ever read it, I've heard Dan Brown's Da Vinci Code has a whole conspiracy theory dealing with the differences.
Ah, at last. The painting everyone thinks of when they hear the name "Leonardo da Vinci."
The Mona Lisa.
It's actually not my favorite of his (and I can say that now, because I've seen more than one!), but it was really, really fun to see it in real life. It's not actually that light - my camera brightened it a little - but there she is.
In the middle of a wall, in the middle of a room.
See that free-standing wall in the middle of the room, with a layer of bulletproof glass over a picture? Yeah, that's the Mona Lisa. Pickpockets are rampant through the Louvre, and especially in this room, because everybody and their dog are crowded close together around one painting, not paying attention to anything else. I took my sweater off, wrapped it all the way around my bag, put the strap over my shoulder, and then hugged the whole thing with both arms. Nobody robbed me. In fact, the pickpockets probably looked at me and laughed.
My friend swears the Mona Lisa's eyes follow you wherever you are in the room. I could kind of see what she meant, but I feel like lots of paintings do that. It was really fun to see though.
Years ago, when I was eighteen, my family went back east for a trip. We passed through Washington D.C. and spent a day or two seeing as much as was humanly possible. We ran the whole time. Sound familiar? I don't think my traveling habits have changed much. In fact, that trip helped form the way I travel.
Anyway, I found out that the only Leonardo da Vinci painting in the western hemisphere was Ginevra de Benci, housed in the Smithsonian. We dashed in right before closing to take a look. I was thrilled! I've read about da Vinci for my whole life, and the thought that I'd seen one of his pictures was wonderful. I never expected to see any others, although I did a lot of research about them. I was perfectly content.
Now I've seen da Vinci paintings in two continents, three nations, and four countries. I've seen all the famous ones I ever studied - literally, all of them - and I've even seen a few extra! I have to say, this has been one of the most thrilling things about this entire trip.
Okay, gushing over. Here are some other random paintings we ran into.
I think this was a Raphael. It's Michael defeating the devil.
Oh, these two (above and below this paragraph) were fascinating! They were set on either side of a large free-standing frame, and both are of David killing Goliath, by the same painter.
Now, lots of times, painters will be commissioned to paint several paintings based on the same story. That's not unusual. What struck me as odd was the fact that the painter hadn't changed up the color schemes or anything - they both look very much the same.
Then I realized it was a piece of interactive artwork - the same scene, painted from both sides. As you walk around the painting, it's like walking around the struggling pair.
Yes, scroll back up and take a good look at the two. They're both in the same physical positions, the drapery is visible from both sides... Well yes, there are a few differences, like the cord that is over David's shoulder in one picture, and is missing in the other, but do you see what I mean?
This one's blurrier than I meant for it to be - sorry. It depicts the two lost princes in the Tower. Here's the story - one of the British kings died, leaving two little princes. His brother took the throne as regent until the boys grew up, and had the boys thrown into the Tower of London. For a few years, people knew they were there - they could be seen at the windows, or Tower guards would talk about them. Gradually though, they were seen less and less, until everyone suddenly realized that they had no idea where the princes were.
They had vanished.
It is generally accepted that the boys' uncles had them assassinated in the Tower, away from everyone else. Victorians seized upon the tragic story with fervor, and lots of paintings were made.
People still talk about it. Recently two child skeletons were discovered walled in the Tower under a staircase, and people thought they might belong to the two little princes. I don't think anyone knows for sure.
I've known this story for ages. A few years ago, another painting of the princes came to BYU as part of a guest exhibit, and I went a couple times just to see it. So I was delighted to see this painting here, sad as it is. It depicts the two princes huddled on a bed. They've been trying to read, but their minds are completely absorbed by the person approaching. One is alarmed, while the other is quietly resigned. You can see the shadow of the person under the door on the left, and the dog has risen to alert. It's probably supposed to show the moments leading up to their deaths or uncertain doom.
So remember in Versailles, the painting of Napoleon crowning Josephine? Well, they've got a copy here, which is actually better than the other one.
Trivia time! Josephine is in the center, kneeling in a red cloak-dress. Above her, seated beneath an arch and wearing a white dress, is a woman. That is actually Napoleon's mother. She couldn't make it to the coronation ceremony, so Napoleon had the hired artist paint her in.
Ahhh! Another picture I've heard of for ages, and never seen! It's massive - far bigger than it looks. It's bigger than my bedroom, and taller than our front porch
Ah, the spirit of France arises to lead on the patriots in this picture. Does the lady look familiar? She should. The artist painted the Winged Victory, but added a head and arms and a more period appropriate (though significantly less modest) dress. Little bit of political propaganda there, showing one of the more famous victorious statues as the embodiment of a revolutionary France.
And here's Napoleon, struggling across the Alps. He really is painted with his hand inside his vest! I thought it was a stereotype!
It's interesting. In England right now, being the anniversary of Waterloo, they are celebrating Napoleon's defeat and Napoleon's defeaters with every ounce of patriotism they've got! Over here, Napoleon is still the great leader whose bright but brief rule is still remembered and flaunted. I saw more things about Napoleon than any of the French kings combined!
Okay, moving on.
"When will you make an end?" "When I am FINISHED!"
Okay, name that quote and the next artist.
Yes, you got it! I was quoting Michelangelo's line from The Agony and the Ecstasy, and these two statues (above and below this paragraph) are both by him. They're supposed to be slaves, tortured by their bondage, struggling for freedom.
Actually, I've kind of felt like this guy when I've been swimming and I'm trying to get regular clothes back on.
Da Vinci and Michelangelo all in one day! My cup is full.
Of course, by this time we had people escorting us out, because it was almost closing time. We were able to pause long enough for one last picture. Wow, I look tired.
These eyes have seen too much today.
The group of us hung out for a while after that, enjoying the cooling air and talking about what we'd seen, trying to avoid the peddlers.
Oh, have I talked about them yet? No? Here goes.
Everywhere you go, at every major or minor site or metro station, there are tall young black men, selling Eiffel Tower models, selfie sticks and alcohol. And you can't get rid of them! I'm a little better than some of the girls, to my own surprise. I think it's all the substitute teaching coming out. I wave them away and they usually go. Some of the other girls have been really confronted though.
(By the way, not being racist at all when I say they were black. I'm describing them, and that's what they were. They were also French, I'm pretty sure, and most of them were tall. And they all wore shoes.)
They speak enough English to try to sell you stuff. "Five euro, five euro, lady?" "Selfie stick? Selfie stick?" One of the girls in our group had been on a Spanish-speaking mission, so she switched to Spanish once, telling them she didn't understand. They stared at her for a minute, and then switched right over after her. "Cinco euro, cinco euro?" After that, we just walked away.
By the way, if you don't know, a selfie stick is a rod with a clamp on the end. You put your camera or phone in the clamp, set it to take a picture on a timer, and then hold it out in front of you. The result looks like you have a friend who took your picture, and the rod is long enough that it actually looks kind of nice.
Still, I'm not going to buy one from one of them. I've heard that people can get pickpocketed or swarmed if they start buying from those folks.
One girl in our group put pass-along cards in her pockets, with the corners sticking out. Pass-along cards are cards made by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, with a phone number and website on them. "If they pick my pocket, maybe they'll call the number, get the missionaries, and join the church!"
We all thought it was a great idea - worth trying at least, but so far nobody's picked her pockets that I know of.
Once you finally get the peddler to go away, they'll often call you the name of some pop singer. I'm not sure if it's a code or what, but I've heard "Lady Gaga," "Rhianna," and "Shakira Beyonce." We have several theories - they're trying to flatter you, they're subtly insulting you, they're saying the only words in English that they know, or it's a code to let their co-conspirators know what kind of person you are.
Actually, it's probably some other option we never even considered.
Anyway, we walked back towards the hotel, and the group of us stopped to get a late-night crepe.
I had mine with sugar and lemon juice, which is apparently traditional. It wasn't as sweet as you'd think, and the lemon juice was bottled, but it was okay. The owner was very nice, especially when I accidentally gave him too much change. He gave it back, and insisted we all put our money away before we left his shop. We were really grateful for his attentiveness. There are some really nice French people!
Somebody had spraypainted large portions of the locks in a graffiti-style way. I would feel super mad if they'd sprayed my lock.
I didn't put one on, but one of my friends had brought one, and snapped it on.
There's another view of the lock bridge. You can see the back of Notre Dame Cathedral to the right. With the big round windows and the huge flying buttresses, I think it looks like a spider.
I say that, of course, with the utmost respect possible for the builders and architects. But it does look like a spider. A very gothic spider.
Here's a random French cafe-type-place. They were everywhere, with people sitting inside and out. Many had the menu on a stand on the sidewalk, so you didn't even have to go in to see if they had something that sounded good. I like that idea!
Ah, yes. Time for the Eiffel Tower. Tourists have two options. They can take two elevators to get to the top, or they can pay to walk up the first two levels, and then take the elevator. Miriam and I and another girl opted to climb up. It's cheaper and more of an experience.
This is climbing up one of the legs from the ground. Not much of a line to go up - I wonder why? I gave out counting around 400 steps, so maybe that's the reason.
It was like climbing up through a huge steel spiderweb. Also, note the color. I never knew exactly what color the tower was supposed to be, but it's a beige sort of dark tan. Apparently it used to be red. I don't know, maybe they decided it stood out too much?
Almost to the first level! I snapped a shot. Yes, there are lots of steps, but it's easier than Tintagel. The steps are even for one thing, and I'm off my crutches now.
We made it! This is the view from the first level.
Our hotel is somewhere off to the right of the screen, I think. Not sure where. Stretching out in front is the long lawn with ticks.
There's a big empty space in the middle of the tower, so you can look down at all the tiny people. Also, part of the floor is made out of (very thick) glass, so you can walk around and look straight down at the ground, far below.
Then we climbed up to the second level, which wasn't as far as the distance from the ground to the first, but it was still a good climb.
That's the view of the top from the second level.
Inside the second level, there's a gift shop and a ticket office for the elevator to the top. Miriam found a mug that looks like the Eiffel Tower. I know, it's hard to imagine. I can hardly think of anything less mug-shaped than the Eiffel Tower, but they managed!
We stood in line for nearly an hour, waiting for the elevator.
The elevator had a clear panel in the ceiling. We crowded in as tightly as we could. This is what it looks like to go to the top!
It also has clear sides. Say hi to the world! My ears popped.
Ah, the top at last! Folks, I've officially been to the top of the Eiffel Tower! It's the tallest thing around. I feel like it's what the Empire State Building used to be, before the rest of New York happened.
Nobody's jumping off here - it's like a little cage at the top of the world.
Inside the top level, there's a line for the elevator. Oddly enough, there were two elevators, but only one line that went to one of the elevators. So we took the other one.
That's out the windows of the top of the tower. We were running late to meet the rest of the girls, so when we got back to the second level, we ran down all the stairs to the bottom. I was very proud that I didn't break my neck!
Then we went to the Musee d'Orsay. It's an art museum, not quite as well known as the Louvre, but still very famous.
I was mad - Whistler's Mother was on loan to San Francisco. Phooey!
I was such a nerd - I've seen this picture forever, and was so happy to see it in real life! It was like running into an old friend that I've never actually met.
Yeas ago, when I read the whole encyclopedia set, it mentioned this picture. I was ridiculously pleased to see it today!
Van Gogh. Not a fan, but he's famous.
They also had a lot of Rodin sculptures. An exhibit of his work came to BYU when I was little. I didn't really recognize any of the pieces, but that was okay.
They also had a lot of Rodin sculptures. An exhibit of his work came to BYU when I was little. I didn't really recognize any of the pieces, but that was okay.
Um, recognize this lady? Yes, this is a model of our very own Statue of Liberty, built by the architect of the tower we climbed this morning, Mr. Eiffel. Talk about coincidences! I think my world collided a little.
This is saints being herded into an arena. Yes, it's gruesome material, but I really loved it. Everyone is being so mean to them, but they're doing the best they can under the circumstances. Even in such a dire situation, the saints are helping each other, bearing the unkindness of those around them.
Oddly, the upper floors closed before the lower floors. I think it's in an effort to get everybody out. It's interesting - I may have said it before, but when a place says "open 9-5," what they mean is, "we start kicking you out at 4:30, everybody out the doors by 4:45, building locked up and employees gone by 5:00." Very different mindset.
The sun shone through and made Lady Liberty's torch look like it was lit. I couldn't resist a photo. We stayed as long as the museum staff would let us.
Everything closes early here, but the light lasts longer, so it felt like things were closing in the middle of the day.
Everything closes early here, but the light lasts longer, so it felt like things were closing in the middle of the day.
Walking to the next stop, we crossed a bridge and noticed some random tepees. I have absolutely zero ideas what they were doing here. Is this Nez Pierce appreciation day or something? I mean, it has nothing to do with their culture or heritage at all.
Next stop, Louvre. I always thought it was a big building with a glass pyramid entrance. I never realized it was a former palace with the pyramid in the center of the courtyard.
After you have your ticket checked, you go into the pyramid and down an escalator. I tried to snap a picture to illustrate.
Once you get down there, you can proceed in any direction. There is no way anybody can see everything, unless you spend about two weeks, full-time. We had our trusty guidebook, so we followed that. It claimed to have a route that showed the highlights, and I think it did a good job.
Ah, naked statue alert starts here. Beware.
This is the Venus de Milo. She's famous because she has no arms. I'm just kidding - she's famous for other reasons too. S curve, ideal of feminine beauty, artistic composition, etc. The sign was written in three languages, but I figured I would use my time looking at things and read up on them later.
If you want to see her face, look her up online. There's lots of pictures of her - I just wanted to get the more modest ones.
Okay, this is a more modest statue. She's actually the not-so-nice wife of a Roman emperor, but her drapery is fabulous. Also, see the gold in the background? Yup, we're in France.
Nobody has yet been able to figure out how this hairstyle was achieved. Some speculate it was a wig, others think it was sewn up. I think - wow, I don't know what to think.
Oh, the Winged Victory. I think they built this whole portion just to showcase her. She's more famous than the Venus de Milo - she's missing her head too! No, I actually don't know which is more famous. But this one is famous for the drapery, sense of motion, and weightlessness that the statue portrays. It's actually several tons in weight.
I'd only ever seen the statue bit - I'd never actually seen the stone platform she stands on. She's larger than life, but the pedestal makes her even taller! If you've ever seen the movie Funny Face with Fred Astaire and Audrey Hepburn, there's a bit where she walks down a flight of stairs holding a scarf that floats out behind her. She's supposed to make you think of the Winged Victory.
Funny though - Audrey Hepburn embodied the idea of beauty at the time: short, straight, flat figure. The Winged Victory emphasized a more ancient ideal of beauty - tall, curvy and voluptuous. So it's an interesting juxtaposition.
Wow, off topic. Sorry.
Yeah, this is me with her. Miriam did a really good job catching the picture - there were tons of people flooding around us.
Okay, I'm positive I've seen this picture before. Help? Anybody? It was a really long time ago. Actually, this painting is super old, and comes with another angel painting and one of Mary and baby Jesus. I don't remember those bits, but I certainly remember this one.
Paintings, paintings everywhere... Really, we could have spent hours here. And it's shocking how casually they hang the names of great artists on the wall! Just like it's no big deal to have a Raphael or a Reubens or a Da Vinci.
Speaking of Da Vinci...
Yes, this is Mary sitting on her mother's lap, playing with baby Jesus, who is in turn playing with a lamb as an echo of his own future sacrifice. Some people think the Burlington cartoon was an early study for this. If you can't remember what the Burlington cartoon was, Google it or look back through my blog - I talked about it.
This is another Da Vinci! From left to right: baby John the Baptist, Mary, baby Jesus, angel. I saw the twin to this in London, and posted about it! The London one is actually my favorite of the two - this one is darker. Incidentally, there are a few key differences between the two paintings - look at my pictures side by side to see. If you've ever read it, I've heard Dan Brown's Da Vinci Code has a whole conspiracy theory dealing with the differences.
Ah, at last. The painting everyone thinks of when they hear the name "Leonardo da Vinci."
The Mona Lisa.
It's actually not my favorite of his (and I can say that now, because I've seen more than one!), but it was really, really fun to see it in real life. It's not actually that light - my camera brightened it a little - but there she is.
In the middle of a wall, in the middle of a room.
See that free-standing wall in the middle of the room, with a layer of bulletproof glass over a picture? Yeah, that's the Mona Lisa. Pickpockets are rampant through the Louvre, and especially in this room, because everybody and their dog are crowded close together around one painting, not paying attention to anything else. I took my sweater off, wrapped it all the way around my bag, put the strap over my shoulder, and then hugged the whole thing with both arms. Nobody robbed me. In fact, the pickpockets probably looked at me and laughed.
My friend swears the Mona Lisa's eyes follow you wherever you are in the room. I could kind of see what she meant, but I feel like lots of paintings do that. It was really fun to see though.
Years ago, when I was eighteen, my family went back east for a trip. We passed through Washington D.C. and spent a day or two seeing as much as was humanly possible. We ran the whole time. Sound familiar? I don't think my traveling habits have changed much. In fact, that trip helped form the way I travel.
Anyway, I found out that the only Leonardo da Vinci painting in the western hemisphere was Ginevra de Benci, housed in the Smithsonian. We dashed in right before closing to take a look. I was thrilled! I've read about da Vinci for my whole life, and the thought that I'd seen one of his pictures was wonderful. I never expected to see any others, although I did a lot of research about them. I was perfectly content.
Now I've seen da Vinci paintings in two continents, three nations, and four countries. I've seen all the famous ones I ever studied - literally, all of them - and I've even seen a few extra! I have to say, this has been one of the most thrilling things about this entire trip.
Okay, gushing over. Here are some other random paintings we ran into.
I think this was a Raphael. It's Michael defeating the devil.
Oh, these two (above and below this paragraph) were fascinating! They were set on either side of a large free-standing frame, and both are of David killing Goliath, by the same painter.
Now, lots of times, painters will be commissioned to paint several paintings based on the same story. That's not unusual. What struck me as odd was the fact that the painter hadn't changed up the color schemes or anything - they both look very much the same.
Then I realized it was a piece of interactive artwork - the same scene, painted from both sides. As you walk around the painting, it's like walking around the struggling pair.
Yes, scroll back up and take a good look at the two. They're both in the same physical positions, the drapery is visible from both sides... Well yes, there are a few differences, like the cord that is over David's shoulder in one picture, and is missing in the other, but do you see what I mean?
This one's blurrier than I meant for it to be - sorry. It depicts the two lost princes in the Tower. Here's the story - one of the British kings died, leaving two little princes. His brother took the throne as regent until the boys grew up, and had the boys thrown into the Tower of London. For a few years, people knew they were there - they could be seen at the windows, or Tower guards would talk about them. Gradually though, they were seen less and less, until everyone suddenly realized that they had no idea where the princes were.
They had vanished.
It is generally accepted that the boys' uncles had them assassinated in the Tower, away from everyone else. Victorians seized upon the tragic story with fervor, and lots of paintings were made.
People still talk about it. Recently two child skeletons were discovered walled in the Tower under a staircase, and people thought they might belong to the two little princes. I don't think anyone knows for sure.
I've known this story for ages. A few years ago, another painting of the princes came to BYU as part of a guest exhibit, and I went a couple times just to see it. So I was delighted to see this painting here, sad as it is. It depicts the two princes huddled on a bed. They've been trying to read, but their minds are completely absorbed by the person approaching. One is alarmed, while the other is quietly resigned. You can see the shadow of the person under the door on the left, and the dog has risen to alert. It's probably supposed to show the moments leading up to their deaths or uncertain doom.
So remember in Versailles, the painting of Napoleon crowning Josephine? Well, they've got a copy here, which is actually better than the other one.
Trivia time! Josephine is in the center, kneeling in a red cloak-dress. Above her, seated beneath an arch and wearing a white dress, is a woman. That is actually Napoleon's mother. She couldn't make it to the coronation ceremony, so Napoleon had the hired artist paint her in.
Ahhh! Another picture I've heard of for ages, and never seen! It's massive - far bigger than it looks. It's bigger than my bedroom, and taller than our front porch
Ah, the spirit of France arises to lead on the patriots in this picture. Does the lady look familiar? She should. The artist painted the Winged Victory, but added a head and arms and a more period appropriate (though significantly less modest) dress. Little bit of political propaganda there, showing one of the more famous victorious statues as the embodiment of a revolutionary France.
And here's Napoleon, struggling across the Alps. He really is painted with his hand inside his vest! I thought it was a stereotype!
It's interesting. In England right now, being the anniversary of Waterloo, they are celebrating Napoleon's defeat and Napoleon's defeaters with every ounce of patriotism they've got! Over here, Napoleon is still the great leader whose bright but brief rule is still remembered and flaunted. I saw more things about Napoleon than any of the French kings combined!
Okay, moving on.
"When will you make an end?" "When I am FINISHED!"
Okay, name that quote and the next artist.
Yes, you got it! I was quoting Michelangelo's line from The Agony and the Ecstasy, and these two statues (above and below this paragraph) are both by him. They're supposed to be slaves, tortured by their bondage, struggling for freedom.
Actually, I've kind of felt like this guy when I've been swimming and I'm trying to get regular clothes back on.
Da Vinci and Michelangelo all in one day! My cup is full.
Of course, by this time we had people escorting us out, because it was almost closing time. We were able to pause long enough for one last picture. Wow, I look tired.
These eyes have seen too much today.
The group of us hung out for a while after that, enjoying the cooling air and talking about what we'd seen, trying to avoid the peddlers.
Oh, have I talked about them yet? No? Here goes.
Everywhere you go, at every major or minor site or metro station, there are tall young black men, selling Eiffel Tower models, selfie sticks and alcohol. And you can't get rid of them! I'm a little better than some of the girls, to my own surprise. I think it's all the substitute teaching coming out. I wave them away and they usually go. Some of the other girls have been really confronted though.
(By the way, not being racist at all when I say they were black. I'm describing them, and that's what they were. They were also French, I'm pretty sure, and most of them were tall. And they all wore shoes.)
They speak enough English to try to sell you stuff. "Five euro, five euro, lady?" "Selfie stick? Selfie stick?" One of the girls in our group had been on a Spanish-speaking mission, so she switched to Spanish once, telling them she didn't understand. They stared at her for a minute, and then switched right over after her. "Cinco euro, cinco euro?" After that, we just walked away.
By the way, if you don't know, a selfie stick is a rod with a clamp on the end. You put your camera or phone in the clamp, set it to take a picture on a timer, and then hold it out in front of you. The result looks like you have a friend who took your picture, and the rod is long enough that it actually looks kind of nice.
Still, I'm not going to buy one from one of them. I've heard that people can get pickpocketed or swarmed if they start buying from those folks.
One girl in our group put pass-along cards in her pockets, with the corners sticking out. Pass-along cards are cards made by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, with a phone number and website on them. "If they pick my pocket, maybe they'll call the number, get the missionaries, and join the church!"
We all thought it was a great idea - worth trying at least, but so far nobody's picked her pockets that I know of.
Once you finally get the peddler to go away, they'll often call you the name of some pop singer. I'm not sure if it's a code or what, but I've heard "Lady Gaga," "Rhianna," and "Shakira Beyonce." We have several theories - they're trying to flatter you, they're subtly insulting you, they're saying the only words in English that they know, or it's a code to let their co-conspirators know what kind of person you are.
Actually, it's probably some other option we never even considered.
Anyway, we walked back towards the hotel, and the group of us stopped to get a late-night crepe.
I had mine with sugar and lemon juice, which is apparently traditional. It wasn't as sweet as you'd think, and the lemon juice was bottled, but it was okay. The owner was very nice, especially when I accidentally gave him too much change. He gave it back, and insisted we all put our money away before we left his shop. We were really grateful for his attentiveness. There are some really nice French people!
As we set off to find the nearest metro station, I was reminded again just how grateful I am for a safe place to sleep at night. Not far from the busy, well-lit, late-night-cafe street, a mother and her two sons were hunkering down for the night. They had a mattress pulled up beneath an ATM, so the security light was right above them. The mother lay between her sons, and had an arm around each boy as they went to sleep, tucked securely in beneath a blanket.
Oh, how I wished I had some way to help them! But I had eaten all my food for the day, and only had a couple of cents, which I needed to conserve for the rest of my trip. I'm not exactly rolling in funds. I don't even speak her language! There was literally nothing Miriam or I could do for her, so we continued on our way back to the hotel.
I'm praying for her though. I can't do anything, but God can, and he knows who else can.
Anyway, tomorrow is another whopping huge day, and I need my beauty sleep. Goodnight!
Anyway, tomorrow is another whopping huge day, and I need my beauty sleep. Goodnight!
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